Should Teenagers Use Retinol?

Retinol is one of the most, if not the most, talked about ingredients in the booming skincare industry today. The best-known retinoid – a family of vitamin A products used on the skin – retinol is revered by experts for its proven ability to relieve a wide range of skin problems (from acne to accelerated aging), but its reputation is not just synonymous with praise.

While negative conversations surrounding retinol once revolved solely around its irritating side effects, given that many older formulations were more harsh than today, there is now controversy surrounding younger people accessing this ingredient as part of of misguided – and dangerous – “anti-aging” attempts. At the same time, the European Commission is reviewing regulations for retinol products to limit the risk of overexposure to vitamin A (a potential health hazard).

But while it goes without saying that retinol is not suitable for children (it's unnecessary and poses safety concerns because their skin is more sensitive and susceptible to irritation and sun damage), the lines are blurred when it comes to its use by adolescents. , given its beneficial impact on acne – a common problem in this age group.

The Benefits of Using Retinol for Teenagers

“I would never recommend it to a teenager concerned about aging – something that has happened in my clinics before,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Self London, confirming that the main benefit of using retinoids in adolescents is mainly for acne management.

“Retinoids reduce acne by promoting cell turnover and preventing clogged pores, thereby reducing breakouts,” says Dr. Mahto. “They also improve skin texture and tone by removing dead skin cells and stimulating the production of new healthy cells, resulting in a clearer complexion. Additionally, retinoids have anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness and swelling associated with acne, leading to a calmer skin appearance.

By reducing the severity and frequency of breakouts, retinoids can also minimize the risk of acne scarring, “which can have long-term cosmetic and psychological effects,” she notes. Overall, she believes that regular use of retinoids can significantly improve the skin health and self-esteem of adolescents, providing immediate and long-term benefits. However, it is important to use them under medical supervision.

“When it comes to the use of retinoids in treating adolescent acne, guidelines recommend starting with retinoids for mild to moderate acne starting at age 12,” Dr. Mahto informs us, emphasizing that this should be done under the guidance of a consultant dermatologist. . “Several factors must be considered and a complete medical history taken into account before choosing the best course of action. A consultant dermatologist can also monitor the treatment and make any necessary adjustments.

The risks of using retinol for adolescents

These experts can guide users through potential side effects, which can include “redness, dryness, scaling, and itching, especially at the start of treatment.” Retinoids also increase sensitivity to the sun, she adds – “so using sunscreen is essential” when using them. “An initial acne breakout or 'purging' phase may occur, which usually disappears within a few weeks. There is also a risk of hyperpigmentation, especially on darker skin tones.

For adolescents, retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy due to the risk of birth defects, she explains – contraception will therefore be necessary alongside their use.

“These risks all highlight the importance of using retinoids under the medical supervision of a consultant dermatologist,” adds Dr Mahto.

Prescription or store-bought retinol

Of course, nothing stops young people from purchasing retinol and other retinoid products without a prescription; there are countless options available from popular retailers, from Boots to Beauty Bay. But they might welcome Dr. Mahto's wisdom if tempted: “I advise caution for adolescents who use over-the-counter retinoid products without professional help.” While beneficial in some cases, these products can cause significant skin irritation, redness, peeling, and dryness if used incorrectly – especially since teens may not know how to apply or dose retinoids correctly. Another thing to note, she adds, “is that acne can be a symptom of underlying conditions requiring different treatments – which a dermatologist can accurately diagnose.” It is imperative that a correct diagnosis is made to ensure the correct course of action is taken for better acne management.

Fortunately, accessing an expert is easier than ever and there are now a host of innovative services available digitally. Many clinics – including some of London's most in-demand dermatologists – now offer digital consultations as standard, while other services, such as Get Harley, have different dermatologists on their books so you can find the perfect practitioner ( and prescription products). for you. Find the top-rated ones listed in our guide to the best online dermatology services – also linked below.

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